I have had relatives in Sonoma County since before I was born, even though I didn’t move here until 1972, when I enrolled at Sonoma State University. One of the first things I did once I was settled into a little cottage in Lakeville was to drive out to Bodega Bay and buy a whole salmon, which I cooked over charcoal in a rock-lined pit I dug in my background.
Soon after, I found Miller’s Drive-In Dairy, with its raw milk in glass bottles and its delicious butter. I found farm stands on Old Redwood Highway and Highway 116 and began planting spinach and sunflowers. That first year, it was too late to start tomatoes.
By the next summer, Sonoma County Farm Trails had formed. The organization of forward-thinking farmers created a map to highlight and support local agriculture and invite the public to learn more about the origins of their food. I tucked their map into my glove box and consulted it frequently.
Farm Trails was the first organization of its kind in the United States and inspired other regions throughout the country to produce their own maps, though none are as comprehensive as ours. Now, Farm Trails is struggling and needs as much help as we can give it. Luckily, supporting Farm Trails has never been easier.
Their Gravenstein Apple Fair provides a large percentage of the nonprofit’s annual budget, so the cancellation of the fair, because of COVID-19, for the second year presents a major challenge. In a stroke of brilliance, Carmen Snyder, executive director, and the board of directors have pulled a genius plan out of their hat.
From 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturday, Aug. 14, Farm Trails will host a benefit concert under the beautiful oak trees at Ragle Ranch Regional Park, home of the fair. Several bands, including the popular T Sisters and the Whiskey Family Band with Alison Harris, will play throughout the day. Cider, wine and beer will be available for purchase, and a number of food vendors will participate, too.
Farm Trails has developed a delicious apple fritter ($8, serves two) and will have a booth devoted to it at the benefit concert. The entire cost of the fritters will go directly to Farm Trails, as ingredients have been donated and everyone is working for free.
Farm Trails is more relevant now than ever. We all know small farms throughout the country are at serious risk. Locally, Farm Trails offers crucial support to many of ours. In addition, the fair is among the leaders of green, environmentally friendly events. All vendors have agreed to use earth-friendly serviceware. No bottled water will be offered or sold. Tony Pagliaro of Hydrologic Water Service is providing water stations where you can fill your reusable bottles. All food waste goes to local pigs. Everything eligible for recycling will be recycled. Guests are encouraged to walk, bike, bus or shuttle to the fair.
Please note that tickets for the 2021 Gravenstein Apple Fair Benefit Concert must be purchased in advance; none will be available at the door. Cost is $75 per person. There are some $60 tickets set aside for Sebastopol residents. And if you are feeling flush and generous, you can purchase a VIP table for up to eight people for $1,200. Kids 6 and under are free with a ticketed adult.
For tickets, visit farmtrails.org, where you can also get information about members.
The Gravenstein Apple Fair Benefit Concert will observe all county and state COVID-19 protocols.
Sonoma County Farm Trails asked Daniel Kedan of Backyard in Forestville to help create a house apple fritter. After several group tastings, this is the delicious outcome. They used rice bran oil for frying, but it is often hard to find or too expensive for home cooks. I prefer peanut oil, but safflower oil is a good option, too.
Farm Trails Apple Fritters
Serves 12 to 16
1 lemon
13 Gravenstein apples
3 cups flour
½ cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, plus more for dusting
2 teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for dusting
2 eggs
2 ¼ cups whole milk
1 tablespoon olive oil
Vegetable oil, such as rice bran, peanut or safflower, for frying
¾ cup powdered sugar, plus more as needed
With a microplane, grate a teaspoon of lemon zest; set aside. Cut the lemon in half and squeeze 2 teaspoons of juice into a small bowl; set aside.
Fill a medium bowl half full with water, squeeze the juice of the lemon into it and drop in the lemon rinds.
Remove the apple cores with an apple corer or vegetable peeler with a pointed rotating blade. Peel or not, it is up to you. (I preferred to peel the apples, but the tasters, while the recipe was being developed, preferred them unpeeled.)
Cut the apples into ⅜-inch rounds and drop them into the lemon water.
Put the flour, sugar, cinnamon, baking powder and salt into a medium bowl and stir with a fork.
Put the eggs into a large bowl and whisk vigorously until smooth. Whisk in the milk and olive oil.
Drain the apples and tip them onto two or three layers of tea towels. Fold the towels over the apples and pat dry, so the batter will cling to them.
Pour about 3 inches of oil into a heavy saucepan and set over medium heat. When the temperature reaches about 330 degrees, fold the dry ingredients into the wet mixture and tip the apples into the batter.
Set several layers of absorbent paper next to the stove; a brown grocery bag works well.
When the temperature of the oil reaches 360 degrees, carefully add several apple slices, shaking off excess coating before dropping them in one at a time. Do not overcrowd them. Cook for about 2 minutes, carefully flip over and cook until evenly golden brown, another 2 minutes or so. Use tongs or a slotted spoon to transfer the fritters to the absorbent paper. Continue until all the fritters have been fried.
To finish, put the powdered sugar into a strainer, add about half a teaspoon or so of cinnamon and several generous pinches of salt and stir gently and quickly. Shake over the fritters.
Transfer to cardboard serving “boats,” small paper bags or baskets lined with paper towels and enjoy right away.
Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date, including “The New Cook’s Tour of Sonoma.” Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.
